I was delighted that our first expedition into Tokyo was to visit the Sekiguchi-dai Elementary School. We were warmly welcomed by the Assistant Principal, Ms. Miyo Wakana and the Principal, Mr. Takeshu Takemura. I was very interested to note that the school's mission statement focused on encouraging cooperation and support among the students. I could see these values in action as the students worked together in music, assisted the teacher in the library, and served their classmates lunch. The students were active, engaged and focused on all of their activities and were very friendly toward their visitors from the United States. I appreciated being able to compare this experience with our visit to the Joshi-seigakuin Junior High School which occurred later on our trip. I was interested to observe a quieter setting where the children were extremely attentive and very focused on their academic subjects. It was clear however that a sense of warmth and cooperation prevailed here as well as we observed the girls changing classes and sharing ideas in art.

My introduction to the history and culture of Japan began on our first afternoon. It was a lovely day to walk around the Imperial Palace Gardens in Tokyo. The foliage was just beginning to display the beautiful colors of autumn, the sky was a clear and sparkling blue, and the air was cool and soft. Indeed, each and every day of my stay in Japan was blessed by this lovely weather. We spent some time admiring the ceramic works in the Shokokan accompanied by Ms. Nori Hotta and Ms. Kiyoko Sawada along with Ms. Matsumoto, who shared their knowledge and appreciation of these works with us. We ended our afternoon with tea at the Palace Hotel, enjoying each other's company in this lovely setting and resting a bit after a very full day. That evening we prepared for the next adventure to come: our travel to Hiroshima, Kyoto and Nara.

Early the next morning we made our way to Haneda airport and our brief flight to Hiroshima. We quickly checked our luggage at our hotel, traveled to Hiroshima Port and boarded a boat for a beautiful twenty minute ride to Miyajima. This island in Hiroshima Bay truly deserves its reputation as one of Japan's "three most beautiful spots." The Itsukushima Shrine and the 0-torii (Grand Gate) standing majestically in the water combined to create a most breathtaking sight. It was here that I had my first taste of Miyajima's famous snails and green tea ice cream. Despite the large number of tourists, shops, and activity, the island nevertheless evoked a serene and quiet feeling. This lighter, more festive mood provided a striking contrast to the more thoughtful, and intense feelings which were to come as we moved on to the Hiroshima Museum and Peace Park.

As we approached the sight of the Hiroshima Museum and Peace Park and caught our first glimpse of the Atom Bomb Dome I was overwhelmed by the immensity of the event that occurred here. In this space I could feel the hope for a peaceful future and a world free of nuclear weapons as a strong and powerful force. What an honor and an inspiration it was to visit with Mr. Kawamoto and hear his story of the day the bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. His talk, which felt to me like a plea for peace was a truly moving moment. After touring the Peace Memorial Museum we walked out into the quiet night with much to think about. Since darkness had descended on the day, we decided to awake early the next morning and return to this site to view the remainder of the Memorial.

We were back at the Peace Memorial early the next morning, in time to watch a group of women lovingly and carefully preparing the floral arrangements at the Flame of Peace. How hopeful to note that this is not an eternal flame, but one which will be extinguished someday when there are no more nuclear weapons left on earth. Then, after spending years sharing the story of Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes with the children back home, I caught my first view of the memorial built in her honor. The statue of this young girl who succumbed to leukemia, now standing exultant reaching skyward in hope for peace was overwhelming. I knew that somewhere in the overflowing piles of cranes left by visitors, there were a thousand cranes made by the students at Lawrence School and brought to Sadako last year by our principal, Jim Smith. In that moment, the notion of our living in a small world never had more meaning. Indeed, my time in Hiroshima will not be forgotten.

We left Hiroshima mid-morning and rode the Shinkansen to Kyoto. For years I had heard the children talk about the bullet train and now I was experiencing their excitement. The ride was extremely comfortable and I was enjoying the chance to view the countryside from the window of the train. After lunch at the Kyoto train station we began a whirlwind tour of the sights of Kyoto. I was struck by the contrast of new and old as we drove through the streets of Kyoto. We toured the Kyoto Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, and moved on the The Temple of the Golden Pavilion where we experienced a glorious sunset in this picturesque setting. The Temple's golden roof reflected in a car filled pond, framed by delicate maple leaves showing their rich red autumn color, and all lit by the fading sunlight is a picture which I will hold in my mind for a long time.

This magical day in Kyoto was not over yet, as we were still to enjoy a special tempura dinner at the lavish Park Hotel Restaurant. What a delightful and memorable evening as we met Mr. Joji Udo who joined us for dinner and spoke of his work at the Imperial Palace. Our night's lodging in Kyoto at Hiden-in in the Sennyuji Temple must truly be counted among the highlights of my time in Japan. I believe I had my best night's sleep here as I could feel the serenity and the peace in this space. I enjoyed tea and a sweet in my room and slept ever so comfortably on tatami and futon. I felt privileged to attend the prayer service in the morning and enjoyed all of the delicacies of our Japanese breakfast.

The wonders and gifts of this experience continued as we now moved on to Nara. I kept thinking that nothing could surpass what I had already seen and done and yet the opportunities kept unfolding for me. My time at the Todai-ji Temple in Nara felt joyful and festive. I loved interacting with the many school children who were also sharing this experience. I was delighted to feed the deer, climb through Buddha's nostril, have my fortune told; I was awed by the size of the Buddha and the structure itself; and I was calmed by the aroma of incense which filled the air. Once again, the day was filled with contrasts. While this morning in Nara had a playful, relaxing quality to it, the afternoon at the Nara National Cultural Properties Research Institute was one of the most intellectually stimulating and exciting experiences of the trip. I was awed by the knowledge that this archeological discovery unearthed a palace which had existed over 1200 years ago. The reproduction of the palace and the well preserved artifacts provided a glimpse into a time that I could not have imagined.

Returning to Tokyo and the Fairmont Hotel Friday evening felt a bit like coming home. I now looked forward to our visit to ISEI on Saturday and meeting with the people who had done so much to facilitate this study tour. I appreciated hearing about ISEI's activities and having the opportunity to share information about education in the Boston area. I was pleased to be able to access the Brookline home page on the Internet and share a video of Lawrence School and its students engaged in a variety of activities. The day felt productive, interesting and stimulating. I was overwhelmed by the kindness and the graciousness shown to us by the staff at ISEI as they warmly shared the day with us.

The day at ISEI ended with meeting our home stay families. I must confess that I felt some anxiety around leaving my companions and our guides, yet the time I spent with Mr. Junichi Shimmyo and his family proved to be among the highlights of my time in Japan. We commuted by train to Hachioji, a new community outside Tokyo consisting of many thousands of condominium units . I enjoyed meeting his wife Nobuko, their daughter Tsukasa, and of course, their dog Taffy. It was great fun getting to know each other. We shared a wonderful dinner Saturday evening and I was able to experience my first Japanese bath. On Sunday morning we walked around the community of Hachioji and it was wonderful to observe and share the Sunday morning activities that seemed so universal: stopping for coffee, watching people garden, observing children on bicycles and many dogs out for their morning walk. Too quickly we needed to head back to Tokyo, but I truly hope that I will maintain my contact and friendship with the himmyo family.

My exposure to Japanese culture continued now with a visit to the Tokyo National Museum where I was thrilled to see Sakai Hoitsu's "Flowers and Birds of the Four Seasons" depicting my favorite screen printing of irises. Then on to an evening at Kabuki theater where I was deeply moved by the costumes, the music, and the dramatic impact of the performances. I loved the opportunity to experience one more delicious obento meal in the theater.

Our final evening in Tokyo was a most elegant dinner at Nadaman in the New Otani Hotel. I was sorry that Ms. Kaya was unable to attend but enjoyed sharing this time with my other ISEI friends. This dinner was indeed the culmination of the graciousness and kindness which I had received throughout my visit. I was so impressed with the care that was given to the way this special meal was served: the beautiful dishes, the arrangement of the food on the plate, the vegetables cut in the shape of maple leaves to reflect the season. Each of the nine courses of this meal was a work of art and I will always remember Ms. Matsumoto's comment that "first we enjoy food with our eyes, then with our nose, and only then with our mouth." After sharing this wonderful meal together, it was time for good-byes. In seven short days I had come to feel a connection with my new friends. I do indeed hope that our paths cross again in the days ahead.

Perhaps the most wonderful aspect of this journey is that I truly feel it is just a beginning. I have only begun to develop my understanding and appreciation of Japanese history, culture and language. I am feeling inspired and motivated to continue this learning process. Most importantly, I am just beginning to explore ways in which I can integrate this learning into my work with all of the children in Lawrence School. What a gift I have been given to participate in this extraordinary adventure. I will do my utmost to share the knowledge and richness of all that I experienced with my colleagues and the children in Brookline. Once again, I must express my deep gratitude and appreciation for this most memorable opportunity.